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Mussels and pearls

The Common Eider

Working Waterfront

 

Maine's first aquaculture company

Maine Science and Technology Foundation
June 14, 2002

SOUTH BRISTOL, Maine – Maine's first aquaculture lease was issued in February 1974 for a 20-acre T-shaped piece of ocean in Clarks Cove in South Bristol. That lease established Abandoned Farm, North America's first mussel farm, said founder Edward Myers.

Myers said "mussels were the junk food of the seafood business" for many years, selling for about 25 cents a bushel in 1940. He said that Maine held contracts to sell thousands of bushels worth of canned mussels to Britain during World War II, shipping them through Halifax.

"It was a nutritious healthy food item for the British, who needed the food very badly," he said.

After the war, though, contracts stopped, and Maine was left with wild mussels that people didn't want to buy because they contained pearls.

"A major drawback to mussels in the United States," said Myers, "is that people do not like to break teeth."

Pearls inside mussels are caused by a tiny worm, a parasite that passes through eider ducks, then finds hiding places inside mussels. The parasite irritates the inside of the mussel, which covers it with shell material, forming a pearl.

Maine's mussel trade languished until the 1970s when a breakthrough at the University of Maine's Darling Marine Center, where Myers worked as an administrator, enabled scientists to determine mussels' age.

Younger mussels meant less time battling the parasites, so Myers said he and his partners were able to guarantee that even wild mussels contained no palpable pearls. He said he never had to respond to complaints about pearls in his mussels or issue a bushel of mussels as a mussel-back guarantee.

Myers's mussel farm still produces mussels, but he said conditions have changed. Warmer coastal temperatures mean nobody has to spend 17 full winter days breaking ice around aquaculture gear, as Myers did in 1981. But warmer temperatures and less ice have attracted eider ducks, which have settled around the river near Myers's mussels. Eiders can eat their weight – about five pounds – in mussels each day, making them a costly predator for mussel farms.

Managing aquaculture ventures is "a big and important job" that requires daily attention, said Myers.

The former Darling Center administrator speaks from experience. From 1949 until 1972, he worked as a lobster and clam dealer, shipping clam bakes as far away as Saudi Arabia and Paris.

Looking back over a lifetime of innovation and experimentation, Myers is quick to spot early missteps.

"For the most part we all went in under-engineered and too many of us used calculators" rather than constructing gear to withstand severe coastal conditions, he said of the pioneering aquaculture efforts.

At 85, Myers is disappointed to see so much debate about leasing applications for aquaculture companies.

"These are the public waters of the state of Maine," he said, and people have fished them for centuries. He added that in other countries, "if the aquaculture was there first, there is very very little trouble."

Myers continues his marine activities as a wharfinger, or commercial wharf manager, in South Bristol. He also writes articles about marine issues for publications including "Working Waterfront."

 

 

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