Other Considerations About Buffers, cont.

Mulching your buffer plants

In undisturbed wooded areas, a natural duff layer builds up over time. Duff is an important part of the ecosystem for a number of reasons. Plant waste (fallen leaves, pine spills, and branches) decompose over time and provide a natural fertilizer for living plants -- this is nature's way of recycling nutrients. Duff also holds quantities of water in reserve, by soaking up runoff and allowing the moisture to be slowly absorbed by plants and underlying soils.

Mulch, such as composted wood fiber or composted yard wastes, mimics natural systems. Newly-planted shrubs and perennials (or herbaceous plants) will benefit from this added layer of protection. Mulch protects areas of bare soil and will also deter unwanted "weeds" in the more formally-designed buffer systems. Be sure to use mulch that has been composted for six months to a year so that nutrients are not leached from the soil. Use about four inches of the material around plants and on any area of bare soil. Remember though, to give plants about an inch of "breathing room" around their bases so that the plants aren't smothered. After planting, allow leaves and evergreen needles to accumulate.

Composting yard and kitchen wastes

Composting is a good way to recycle nature's resources, and for most property owners, there is already an abundant supply of raw materials at hand. Leaves, grass clippings, and other yard waste, as well as non-meat kitchen scraps, can be combined and allowed to decompose for a year. The compost provides a fine mulch or soil amendment for use in your buffer or other garden sites. Well-rotted compost is a soil amendment which has been approved for use in the shoreland zone by the Maine Department of Environmental Protection. A brochure developed by the University of Maine Cooperative Extension Service (in the folder) will help you establish a system for composting yard wastes. See the reference section for further sources of infomration.

Use of fertilizer and pesticides

One of the most important roles of buffers is the uptake of excess nutrients; in lake watersheds, phosphorus is the nutrient of greatest concern. When planting your buffer, choose materials that will not require constant feeding and spraying and that are naturally hardy and resistant to insects and disease. Keep air circulation open to avoid fungal diseases. If plants still appear sick, remove and destroy them to prevent spread of the disease among similar plants.

If you really feel that you must use a fertilizer, use it sparingly! Apply a liquid that will immediately soak in and will not sit on the surface to be washed into the water by heavy rains.

Be stingy -- apply fertilizer only during the growing season so that it is taken up immediately. If you must spray for pests or disease, start treatments with the most benign method of control possible, such as baking soda combined with water and a small amount of horticultural oil or a non-phosphate dish soap and water. Use pesticides as a last resort; they are harmful to aquatic life and beneficial insects. Selecting plants that will attract a variety of birds provides the added benefit of an effective means of bug control. Information on safe means of pest and disease control is available from your Cooperative Extensive Service, from organic gardening references, and from many reputable nurseries.

Improving soil health

Where soils have been highly disturbed as a result of construction, or have become heavily compacted as a result of years of foot traffic, it is recommended that well-rotted compost be added when plants are introduced. Mulch plants well and water thoroughly until the plants are established. Most shrubs, once established, are actually best left to fend for themselves. Remember too, phosphorus and nitrogen will be supplied by runoff, and will be recycled from fallen plant wastes.

Where you have a lawn, such as in the area next to your home or camp, spread lime to sweeten (increase pH) the soil. Adding lime changes the pH of the soil which in turn will help deter the spread of many weeds. Hand digging weeds is another "environmentally friendly" way of controlling unwanted species. Set your lawn mower high enough so that grass length is two to three inches or more. Should you need to rake the lawn, save those clippings for your compost pile!

Work to improve soil health. Compost and mulch will help to provide a beneficial environment for soil organisms and will also help to make the soil more absorbent because of the addition of organic matter. Providing a healthy soil for your buffer plants will help to keep pests to a minimum. A pamphlet on soils has been included in this folder, which will help you to assess your site's conditions.