Understanding Your House Lot
To get started, you need to make a careful assessment of your property. The physical characteristics of your present landscape will provide you with a framework for your buffer design. Understanding the character of your lot is vital, so that you can put the right plants in the right places. Careful planning will save you time and money and yield results that will make you proud.
Site characteristics you must consider
Location of buildings
As you develop your buffer design, take into account the size of your lot and how the buildings and driveway are laid out. If your lot is small or your buildings are set close to the lake, you may not be able to have a 100- or even a 75-foot buffer, but any buffer is better than no buffer. Older camps in particular are set close to the lake. Prior to the Shoreland Zoning law, when we did not understand how to protect our lakes, there was no building set back requirement or a very limited one (for more information on the Shoreland Zoning law, see page 16). Today, as a result of many studies, we understand that building close to a lake or stream significantly increases the pollution load going into the lake. Buffers help reduce this pollution load. Since the objective of the buffer is to prevent erosion and filter pollutants, planting buffers up slope of your home or down slope of the road will also help. The goal is always to prevent erosion and intercept water flow before it reaches the lake or stream.
Soil types and condition
It is highly important to understand the site’s soil type, since good soil is the foundation for healthy plants. There must be a good match between the soil and the plants chosen for the buffer. Soil types may vary from place to place on your lot. For example, one section may be low and remain wet throughout much of the growing season, while another area may be sandy, rocky, shallow, or dry. Look at the plants that are growing there now, or in similar conditions off-site; they will give you good clues about the soil conditions. If you are planning to purchase material for your buffer, keep these varying conditions in mind. Soils with little organic matter -- often found in densely developed areas -- can be improved with the addition of compost and lime. See the folder pamphlet, Know Your Soil, for further discussion of how to assess your soil for plant needs.
Degree of slope
… or more simply put, is your lot steep or flat? Steeper areas are more sensitive to erosion and require a variety of root types for permanent stabilization. (Remember, water runs downhill faster in steeper areas and carries larger soil particles farther and faster.) If your house or camp is located on a hillside, try to develop as deep a buffer as possible in order to absorb runoff from roofs, driveways, and outbuildings.
Exposure
Conditions on your lot are affected by the amount of exposure to the elements. Is your property located on a north-facing slope, and is therefore subject to cooler temperatures and higher winds? Or does it face south, with elevated temperatures or little air movement? Is your site partially protected by a hill or does it jut out on a point of land? Taking note of exposure will help you select appropriate plant materials and create a design that can provide shade on hot days or protection from high winds.
Sunlight
How much sunlight will your proposed buffer site be receiving? Watch the shadows caused by trees and buildings as the sun moves across the sky, noting areas of deep shade or those that are in full sunlight. This information will help you choose appropriate plants for varying conditions.
Plant zones
Using plants that are hardy in your temperature zone is important. A map showing the temperature zones of Maine has been included with the Plant List. Recommendations have been given for zones 3, 4, and 5. If you suspect you are in a marginal area, generally select plants for the cooler zone. Plants from a warmer zone may do well in protected areas of your property, but check with a reputable local nursery or landscaping business for advice. If you have questions about plant materials not covered in this folder, those same experts can provide answers.
Other Conservation Practices
Best Management Practices (or BMPs) can help you to stabilize areas of minor to moderate erosion on your property and complement the performance of vegetated buffers in controlling runoff. Many will actually decrease property maintenance costs. The fact sheet entitled Stormy Day Survey, included with this folder, will help you to identify those areas which may need some structural attention. A short list of simple BMPs is given below. For information on how to install these practices, call your local Conservation District.
Rock-lined drip edges
... beneath the roof edge drip line, are very helpful in controlling erosion. They also will lengthen the life of a building’s wood finishes by protecting the walls from splash. A trench dug 6-8" in depth is then filled with 3/4-inch stone. This will allow rainwater to collect and slowly dissipate. In areas of clay or heavily-compacted soils, a 2" lining of sand is recommended before stone is added. Use of a stone-lined drip edge behind foundation plantings will also help prevent damage to plants from roof runoff occurring during heavy rains and from ice and snow melt.
Stabilized pathways
… can be accomplished in a number of ways. The simplest method is to cover the pathway with a 2-inch layer of bark mulch or wood chips. This will have to be renewed periodically, as the material decomposes -- about once every couple of years. Other options include seeding the pathway with an appropriate grass mix; setting paving stones, bricks, cement tiles, or slate in a matrix of mulch, wood chips, or crushed stone; or by creating a boardwalk. Remember that winding pathways are preferred so that moving water will not create channels.
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